Choosing Gold Findings

These are the types of gold findings and beads you'll find on the market to make jewelry with:

Solid Gold: Most people are familiar with the designation of karats, with 24 karat being pure gold, which is bright yellow, and rather soft. 14 karat is most typically used for jewelry due to its strength, and is a warmer yellow. The higher the karat number, the less other metal is mixed in. However, the purer the gold, the softer, brighter, and more expensive it is.

Gold-plated: In gold-plated objects, a thin layer of gold is deposited on the surface of another metal, usually copper and/or nickel. Typically, the gold plating is a high karat, such as 22k, but there is no regulation on how thick the layer of plating must be. Therefore, people with sensitive skin will likely have an adverse reaction to these plated materials. In addition, while gold-plated pieces offer the bright glint of pure gold, they also run the risk of tarnishing, rubbing off, or chipping over time.

Gold-filled: Gold-filled objects are also composed of a base metal (often brass) covered in a layer of gold. However, while the gold layer on gold-plated pieces can vary greatly, a gold-filled piece must, by definition, contain 1/20 of its weight in gold. The layer of gold is also significantly thicker on something that is gold-filled, meaning that with normal use, it is not likely to tarnish or wear through. On the other hand, gold-filled components usually use 10-14kt gold, which is less bright in color. Typically, people with sensitive skin can wear gold-filled components safely without a reaction.

Gold Vermeil: Gold vermeil is a type of plating, but unlike regular gold-plating, must meet specific requirements. Instead of base metal, the gold must be layered over sterling silver. In addition, the gold must be at least 2.5 microns thick, and at least 10 karats, though typically 22 karat gold is used. However, because sterling silver tarnishes (even under the gold-plate), gold vermeil items will typically darken over time from a bright yellow to an antique patina. But because the gold is layered over sterling silver, those with nickel or other metal allergies need not worry about reactions to gold vermeil pieces.